Coinjock, NC to Beaufort, NC

October 27, 2019 - November 2, 2019

On Monday we crossed the Abermarle Sound which is one of the largest bodies of water on the ICW.  Consequently, the winds can kick up some substantial waves.  Even though the wind was stronger than expected it was mostly behind us and did not effect our comfort.  The problem of the day was power boats.  Most power boaters will hail us on the VHF and warn us that they will be passing us and then have the courtesy to slow down as they pass (we slow down too).  On Monday we had several power boats wake us badly.  One was so serious that it caused one of our bikes to fall out of the quarter berth.  We had to traverse the Alligator River as well.  When we left Baltimore the information we had was that the Alligator River Bridge was being repaired (it had been shut down for several days) and had a very limited opening schedule.  By the time we got to the bridge it was back opening on request and we sailed through in a long line of sailing and power boats without even slowing down. That night we anchored just before the start of the Alligator River/ Pongo River Canal.

We passed the R.E. Mayo seafood market
with two shrimp boats docked out front.

The next morning we left our anchorage at 7:45 and headed down the twelve mile canal.  The canal is straight and mostly boring, lined on both sides with North Carolina Pine and a few deciduous trees showing fall color.  I amused myself by looking at things with the binoculars and asking Bob questions.  After all there was no cell service and I couldn’t access “Google”.  I also found Lola’s cat nip mouse and refilled it.  Lola played with it for quite awhile and then I played with her in her drug induced energy spurt.  She soon calmed down.  Around lunch time we excited the canal and started down the Pongo River which has clusters of water front houses and more to see. We anchored in Goose Creek after we crossed the Pamlico River. I did some baking - a ham and gruyere quiche and a batch of brownies.  We weren’t as protected from the wind as we had hoped and the evening started off with rocking and rolling but calmed down by bedtime.  Bob put the anchor harness on the anchor chain which also helped to lessen the motion.

We love quiche for breakfast while we are underway!

Our plan for Wednesday was to head down the Pongo River and anchor off Adams Creek in Cedar Creek.  The Pongo River is also a large body of water and we encountered shrimp boats and a tug pushing a barge.  I cooked hamburger stroganoff (one of our favorite meals) for lunch.  Something about eating under way makes it all the more delicious.  After anchoring at 1:15 we caught up on the days news, emails and some blogs Bob follows.  Lola and I played out on the cabin top in the warm sun and cool breeze.  Her new favorite toy is a length of line we use for securing items on deck.  Anchoring out is one of my favorite parts of this journey; it’s always so peaceful.

There was no need to get up early on Thursday as we had only 17 nm to go to get to Beaufort, NC.  We were docked in Beaufort by 10:30 am with just enough time to shower before we had lunch.

Bob and I enjoying pizza at the
Black Sheep Restaurant
on the waterfront.

This is the luxury vehicle we borrowed from the marina
 to drive to the grocery store for provisions.
Yes, there is a red door on this green car!

On Saturday we walked to the Farmers Market in the Court House Square.  We bought some winesap apples, fresh whole wheat bread, and a fragrant soy candle.  Soy candles work well on the boat because they burn at a lower temperature and don't create smoke.  

After lunch I took a long bike ride around town and took some photos.

The historic A.M.E. Church on Ann St. 

Beaufort is filled with houses built in the mid to late1800's.
I thought this one was particularly charming.

The old train depot (circa 1907) now sits on Broad Street.
Trains ran from Beaufort to Moorehead City
 from 1907 to the 1980's.

Sitting on the cabin top looking around the marina caused me to think of the ever changing variety of boats and crew that we encounter on our trip.  We often share anchorages and marinas with familiar boats, but there are always new boats, too.  Even though we cruisers are all unique and diverse we share a similar lifestyle and a camaraderie.

This is the view of the marina I had while sitting
 on the cabin top filling our water tanks.

Thank you for reading my blog.