Georgetown, SC to Beaufort, SC and beyond

November 10, 2019 - November 17, 2019

We left Georgetown just after sunrise to start our three day trip to Beaufort, SC.  Our first day we planned to motor 50 miles, but stopped short of that goal and anchored in Capers Creek.  We were definitely back in the lush South Carolina low country as we were surrounded by marsh.  The familiar smell of the pluff mud and the beauty of the spartina grass were a welcome sight.  We spent last winter in the low country and most of the winter of 2016/2017 and it has become one of my favorite eco-systems.  Shrimp boats, pelicans, egrets, and dolphins are abundant in the low country waterways.

One advantage of getting up early
is seeing a beautiful sunrise!

A pelican resting on a day marker

A shrimp boat out early

On Monday we had planned to get a later start to hit Elliot Cut at slack tide, but Bob couldn’t wait.  We got through the Ben Sawyer Bridge at 10:00am and entered Charleston harbor.

The Ravenell Bridge connects Charleston with Mount Pleasant.

Boats are anchored in Charleston Harbor
just in front of the City Marina.

Because of Bob’s impatience we hit Elliot Cut when the tidal current was still about four knots  against us which slowed us down considerably.  Bob had to “white knuckle” it through the cut, but we safely made it into the Stono River.  We anchored off Stono River in Church Creek.

I finally photographed a beautiful sunset.

Tuesday dawned overcast and rain was predicted for later in the day.  We hoped we could make it to Beaufort before the deluge.  We had a few cuts (small dredged canals between rivers or creeks) to navigate, but high tide helped us through them without a problem.  We passed under the Ladies Island Bridge and docked at Bueafort Downtown Marina at 2:00 pm in the pouring rain.  I was soaked to the skin by the time we were settled in our slip.  Hot rum drinks helped us to warm up and relax after the stressful docking.  

Wednesday was sunny, but with a cold wind.  We braved the elements and had breakfast at Common Ground just off the harbor side park and later lunch at Plum’s.  I had Shrimp and Grits, one of my favorite low country offerings.

The park extends from the Ladies Island Bridge to the Downtown Marina.
 It has porch swing type seats and in warmer weather
I would have been swinging on one.

Bob wasn’t interested in looking in many of the stores on Bay Street (the first street away from the park) and after a while he headed back to the boat while I completed my exploration.  One shop that intrigued me was a kitchen store that had such a plethora of items it took me quite awhile to look at everything.

 I have started to collect kitchen towels and
found this one in the kitchen store.

  

One side of Bay street is mostly shops
and the other side is mostly restaurants.    

 Many of the historic homes have been converted
to Bed and Breakfast Inns.

Beaufort has several trading libraries
like this one all around town.
The policy is "take one - leave one".

Beaufort has some family history attached.  My in-laws (Sig and Claire Hanel) married here during WW II.  Sig was stationed at Parris Island at the time and later was deployed to the Pacific.

Thursday was cloudy and a light rain started in the morning.  I got the laundry done before the deluge that afternoon.  The rain continued all day, all day Friday and all day Saturday. Ugh!  We still managed to get groceries and rum. I got out some fabric and cut out the pieces for my next quilt. On Saturday we watched Penn State beat Indiana University 27-24.  

Sunday morning we left the marina at 9:00 am heading south on the Beaufort River past Port Royal and Parris Island.   

This is the water tower at Parris Island which states “We Make Marines”.

The wind and current were both strong causing a rocky ride.  The waves and wind calmed down once we got across Port Royal Sound and into Skull Creek.  The rest of the trip was calm with sunshine warming up the enclosure nicely. We anchored in New Creek around 2:30.

Lola relaxing in the cockpit after a long day of travel.

Tomorrow we leave South Carolina and enter Georgia which has some trouble spots on the ICW.

Thank you for reading my blog.

Beaufort, NC to Georgetown, SC

November 3, 2019 - November 9, 2019

We left Beaufort at around 7:45 am on Sunday which is later than usual, but we needed to time the tides to some areas we would be encountering later in the day.  The weather for the first two days of travel was mild and sunny and our days ended by 3:00pm.  The first night we anchored in Mile Hammock Bay which is within the grounds of Camp LeJuene.  We were one of the first of twelve other boats to anchor there for the night.  Lola had been a little lethargic lately so I made a point of playing with her out on the cabin top that afternoon.  She attacked a line I teased her with with great vigor.  We have to remember that she needs this kind of play time. 

The Pink House, as we have named it,
sits on its own island on the west side of the ICW. 

Our second night we anchored at Wrightsville Beach.  The wind had picked up in the afternoon, but calmed down in the evening.  We woke up to cloudy skies, warm temperatures, and a short rain storm. We raised our anchor and headed off to Southport. On the Cape Fear River we were joined by a pair of dolphins.  They swam, dived, and surfaced along side the boat for several minutes.  The pair was most likely a female and her young as the young dolphins stay with their mother for about three years to learn the social and food gathering behaviors necessary for survival.  It was a short trip and we arrived in time to have lunch at one of our favorite spots, Fishy Fishy. As we were walking home the rain that had been threatening all day began in earnest. We relaxed inside listening to the sound of the rain on the boat.  Southport is one of our favorite stops on the ICW, it seems almost like a home port.  On our stay over day in Southport we got out our folding bikes and road around town and out Howe Street to a great Italian Restaurant, Bambini’s. The whole trip was about five miles. 

Brightly painted shutters at Fishy, Fishy

The seafood market with brightly colored floats hanging outside

Pelicans are one of my favorite marine birds.

On Thursday we had three trouble spots to get through.  We left at 6:30 am just as the sun was rising in order to hit these spots with a favorable tide.  At low tide we would be more likely to go aground or touch bottom at some point.  Lockwood’s Folly Inlet was the first trouble spot, next came Shallot Inlet.  We got through both with no trouble.  Bob studies many sources of information on issues like these and plots our course meticulously saving us from making mistakes. He is usually at the helm through these tough spots and I am watching with binoculars to identify buoys and day markers. We make a good team. The last spot of concern was Little River Inlet which we breezed through with no problems.  Inlets from the ocean like these are particularly difficult to navigate because of the strong currents which produce ever changing areas of shoaling. 

Seeing this large casino boat as we rounded
a bend in the ICW channel was quite a surprise!

We docked at Barefoot Landing Marina by 2:00 pm, tired, but happy to be through the trouble spots.  Barefoot Landing is in the Myrtle Beach area.  Jimmy Buffet’s sister, Lulu, has recently completed a complex including a restaurant, arcade and rope climbing area across the ICW from Barefoot Landing Marina.  It looks like the area is headed toward being a major stop on the ICW.

 At night Lulu’s takes on a carnival spirit with bright lights and music.

Leaving the marina at 7:30 am we were in for a rather boring day of canals and a long the winding Waccamaw River. The weather changed drastically from the day before.  I was in shorts and a tank top yesterday, but in jeans and a sweatshirt today.

 Palatial houses lined the ICW in the Myrtle Beach area.

We were docked at the Dry Stack Marina in Georgetown, SC by 2:30pm.  After checking in we walked downtown to get some ice cream.

Sweeties has delicious ice-cream.

On Saturday the marina dock master gave us a ride to the Food Lion and back to the marina after we purchased all of the supplies we needed.  After I stowed all of the groceries I took my camera for a walk around the marina and town. Georgetown is the third oldest town in South Carolina and contains historic houses, the rice museum, and the old shrimp dock.  Nearby are old rice and indigo plantations that can be toured.

This is the view of the harbor and Harbour Walk
from our dock.  The shrimp boats are docked
in front of the old shrimp processing plant.

Here's the entrance to our Marina.

This is a window in the old fish house
next to the marina.

The Cleland House, pictured here, was built in 1737
by John and Mary Perry Cleland on Front Street.
Local legend claims it is haunted.
To read the story go to this link
.https://www.hauntedplaces.org › item › leland-house

Front Street is lined on both sides by live oaks.

The Harbor Walk a is lined
with restaurants and shops.

Costal Carolina University docks its
marine research vessel in Georgetown.

On Saturday afternoon we watched the PennState vs. Minnesota game.  Penn State lost (their first loss of the season) 26 - 31.

Tomorrow we will start our three day trip to Beaufort, SC.


Thanks for reading my blog.

Coinjock, NC to Beaufort, NC

October 27, 2019 - November 2, 2019

On Monday we crossed the Abermarle Sound which is one of the largest bodies of water on the ICW.  Consequently, the winds can kick up some substantial waves.  Even though the wind was stronger than expected it was mostly behind us and did not effect our comfort.  The problem of the day was power boats.  Most power boaters will hail us on the VHF and warn us that they will be passing us and then have the courtesy to slow down as they pass (we slow down too).  On Monday we had several power boats wake us badly.  One was so serious that it caused one of our bikes to fall out of the quarter berth.  We had to traverse the Alligator River as well.  When we left Baltimore the information we had was that the Alligator River Bridge was being repaired (it had been shut down for several days) and had a very limited opening schedule.  By the time we got to the bridge it was back opening on request and we sailed through in a long line of sailing and power boats without even slowing down. That night we anchored just before the start of the Alligator River/ Pongo River Canal.

We passed the R.E. Mayo seafood market
with two shrimp boats docked out front.

The next morning we left our anchorage at 7:45 and headed down the twelve mile canal.  The canal is straight and mostly boring, lined on both sides with North Carolina Pine and a few deciduous trees showing fall color.  I amused myself by looking at things with the binoculars and asking Bob questions.  After all there was no cell service and I couldn’t access “Google”.  I also found Lola’s cat nip mouse and refilled it.  Lola played with it for quite awhile and then I played with her in her drug induced energy spurt.  She soon calmed down.  Around lunch time we excited the canal and started down the Pongo River which has clusters of water front houses and more to see. We anchored in Goose Creek after we crossed the Pamlico River. I did some baking - a ham and gruyere quiche and a batch of brownies.  We weren’t as protected from the wind as we had hoped and the evening started off with rocking and rolling but calmed down by bedtime.  Bob put the anchor harness on the anchor chain which also helped to lessen the motion.

We love quiche for breakfast while we are underway!

Our plan for Wednesday was to head down the Pongo River and anchor off Adams Creek in Cedar Creek.  The Pongo River is also a large body of water and we encountered shrimp boats and a tug pushing a barge.  I cooked hamburger stroganoff (one of our favorite meals) for lunch.  Something about eating under way makes it all the more delicious.  After anchoring at 1:15 we caught up on the days news, emails and some blogs Bob follows.  Lola and I played out on the cabin top in the warm sun and cool breeze.  Her new favorite toy is a length of line we use for securing items on deck.  Anchoring out is one of my favorite parts of this journey; it’s always so peaceful.

There was no need to get up early on Thursday as we had only 17 nm to go to get to Beaufort, NC.  We were docked in Beaufort by 10:30 am with just enough time to shower before we had lunch.

Bob and I enjoying pizza at the
Black Sheep Restaurant
on the waterfront.

This is the luxury vehicle we borrowed from the marina
 to drive to the grocery store for provisions.
Yes, there is a red door on this green car!

On Saturday we walked to the Farmers Market in the Court House Square.  We bought some winesap apples, fresh whole wheat bread, and a fragrant soy candle.  Soy candles work well on the boat because they burn at a lower temperature and don't create smoke.  

After lunch I took a long bike ride around town and took some photos.

The historic A.M.E. Church on Ann St. 

Beaufort is filled with houses built in the mid to late1800's.
I thought this one was particularly charming.

The old train depot (circa 1907) now sits on Broad Street.
Trains ran from Beaufort to Moorehead City
 from 1907 to the 1980's.

Sitting on the cabin top looking around the marina caused me to think of the ever changing variety of boats and crew that we encounter on our trip.  We often share anchorages and marinas with familiar boats, but there are always new boats, too.  Even though we cruisers are all unique and diverse we share a similar lifestyle and a camaraderie.

This is the view of the marina I had while sitting
 on the cabin top filling our water tanks.

Thank you for reading my blog. 

St. Michaels, MD to Coinjock, NC

October 21, 2019 - October 28, 2019

Monday’s weather was a great improvement over yesterday.  It was partly sunny with temperatures in the 60’s.  We were toasty warm in our enclosure as we motored south on the Chesapeake Bay to Solomons.  After getting fuel and water we arrived at Zanhisers Marina at 4:30 just before the office closed at 5:00 and got help with docking on a T-head.  We both took nice long showers and had pizza for dinner.  Zanhisers is one of our favorite marinas on the Chesapeake with great facilities and a shuttle to the grocery store.  

On Tuesday, one of our propane tanks had run out and the shuttle driver kindly agreed to take us to get it filled after she dropped the other boaters off at the grocery store.  Since neither of us had gotten to eat any of the crab mac-n-cheese I had made for the rendezvous I made some for lunch when we got back to the marina.  It was yummy! The rain and wind (the reason we stayed an extra day in Solomons) started at 4:30 and was quite strong all evening.

Wednesday we planned to make up the stay over day we had in Solomons and traveled 55 nm to an anchorage in Fishing Bay near Deltaville, VA.  We had been surrounded by numerous boats as we motor sailed on the calm bay with the wind behind us. Several boats had their spinnakers out.  Most of those boats had also chosen the same anchorage in Fishing Bay.  There were 22 boats in the anchorage by nightfall.  We enjoyed the peaceful, beautiful setting grilling chicken for dinner and eating in the cockpit while the sunset.  

We never stopped at this anchorage before,
but found it peaceful and quiet.
We will definitely put it on our favorite list,

Sunset on Fishing Bay

Thursday we motor sailed to Hampton, VA near the start of the ICW.  While we are out on the water we get to watch the marine life as it changes as we get further south.  We have been seeing lots of brown pelicans which are one of my favorite marine birds.  They usually fly close to the water to take advantage of the updraft and dive recklessly into the water to catch fish.  They aren’t attractive, but are very efficient birds.

The first thing we did in Hampton was have pizza at Bull Island Restaurant.  Their menu is limited but they have a gazillion craft beers on tap.  Hampton is a favorite stop just before we enter the ICW and we had a coupon for a free night so, of course, we stayed two nights.  Friday we did a little maintenance (my part was cleaning) in the stern area and then went out to lunch.  Have you noticed that eating is one of our favorite pastimes (LOL). 

We ate lunch at Venture and they had eleven
craft beers on tap!

Restaurant row in Hampton

The first real fall color we have seen

Can you tell I'm trying to be more
artistic in my photography?

On our walk to the water we encountered
this seafood market which had a huge
seafood processing building behind it.

This shrimp boat supplies the
seafood processing plant.

I'm a sucker for carousels, and
Hampton has a beautiful antique one.

Across from our marina was
Joy's Marina.  The reflexion
that afternoon was great.

Our next destination was Great Bridge where there is a free dock.  We got through the lock easily.  Just as an aside, the first time we went through the lock I was extremely apprehensive, but this time it was easy.  We got through the bridge only to find that the free dock area was full.  I searched the charts for a suitable anchorage near the bridge and found one at mile 27.  On the charts it looked iffy, but when we got there it was fine.  We spent a quiet, peaceful night anchored out.

Sunrise!

Our plan was to dock at Coinjock marina on Sunday, but when we called them they were full.  I did another search for an anchorage close by and found one seven miles past Coinjock.  We did stop at Coinjock for fuel, water, ice and a great lunch (they have great food - never been disappointed).  The anchorage was quiet and well protected from wind.  At around 7:00 pm there were some thunder rumbles but no rain or wind.  It should be a quiet night. 

Lola is enjoying the trip!

Thank you for reading my blog.

Final days in Baltimore - St. Michael's

October 14, 2019 - October 20, 2019

Monday was a day to clear the boat of all of the items we needed to take to storage before our trip and finish up some last minute projects.  I repaired a Rainy Days burgee that we had used the last time we were in the Bahamas and did some cleaning in the cabin and in the cockpit. We did some provisioning and stowed all the purchases.

One of our last meals in Canton was at the Claddagh Pub.

I had a cardiology appointment on Tuesday morning and afterwards we completed all of our final errands in Annapolis including purchasing a whole pizza from Italian Market to pack up and store in the fridge for the times we are having pizza withdrawal symptoms.  That evening the friend and neighbor group we socialized with over the summer had a going away party in the boater’s lounge.  Since we are all going south to different destinations and at different times we wanted a chance to say good by to each other.

Our happy group of cruisers enjoying the last party of the season.

I had an echo cardiogram scheduled for early Wednesday morning and another doctor’s appointment later in the day.  Bob opted to stay home and I drove to Annapolis on my own.  All went well with both my medical visits.  It was pouring down rain by the time I got home and continued raining for the rest of the day.  I did some last minute laundry in preparation for leaving.

On Thursday morning the dinghy had about
three inches of water in it which I bailed out.

Thursday was our scheduled day of departure, but there were gale force wind warnings and we decided (wisely) to postpone our trip until Friday. It was reported that 53 mph wind gusts were recorded on the Bay Bridge so we’re glad we stayed put.

Friday was chilly (high of 64) but sunny with winds out of the NNW.  We had an eight hour trip across the bay to St. Michael’s and were anchored for the night at 3:30 pm.  It was great to be back out on the water again. Bob grilled some steaks and I cooked corn on the cob for our first dinner in the cockpit.  Lola spent the whole day in the cockpit with us, but seemed to be confused about what was going on. That night the outside temperature went down to 46 so I was glad I put an extra blanket on our bed.  Lola joined us in the v-berth to sleep and share the warmth. 

The first sunset of many on our trip south.

Bob took the chill off the morning by lighting our propane fireplace, but we spent most of the morning in the cockpit where the sun warmed up the space inside our enclosure nicely.  Before lunch we took the dinghy into town to touch base with the C&C rendezvous group.  We walked down Talbot Street stopped  in a few shops and ate lunch at The Galley. 

Some amusing coasters in one of the
shops we visited

A witchy mermaid decoration

Back with the C&C group we talked about our adventures since our last meeting in 2018.  I made some crab mac-n-cheese to share with the group after our tour of the Lyon Distillery.  The tour was informative, but the tasting was more fun.  The craft distillery produces several varieties of rum, vodka, gin, and agave. Distilling is quite an involved process. After the tour Bob and I headed back to the boat to watch the Penn State Game; they beat Michigan 28 to 21.  It was an exciting game with lots of cheering from the crowd who were all wearing white (a famous white out). Quite impressive!

Some shiny distillery equipment

On Sunday it poured rain all day.  To get into town we had to don our foul weather gear, bail out the dinghy and motor through the rain.  We ate lunch at the Crab Claw and just as we were finishing the C&C group came in.  We sat with them while they had lunch and helped teach the Canadians how to pick crabs.  

The happy group of C&C sailors eating crabs!

Back at the boat we hung up our foul weather gear to dry and settled in for a quite  evening. 

Thank you for reading my blog.